/* ============================================================
   THE SEEKING SOUL — 2026 editorial refresh
   A personal field notebook, not a stock-photo travel template.
   ============================================================ */

:root {
  --paper: #f3eee3;
  --paper-2: #e8dfcf;
  --card: #fffaf0;
  --ink: #172537;
  --ink-soft: #5f625f;
  --line: #cfc5b3;
  --line-soft: #dfd6c7;
  --accent: #ef6249;
  --accent-deep: #bd3f30;
  --gold: #efc85f;
  --sage: #2f8178;
  --night: #16283b;
  --night-2: #20394f;
  --cream-on-dark: #fff8eb;
  --font-mono: 'DM Mono', ui-monospace, SFMono-Regular, Menlo, monospace;
  --shadow-sm: 0 6px 18px rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.08);
  --shadow-md: 0 16px 38px rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.13);
  --shadow-lg: 0 30px 80px rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.18);
}

html { background: var(--paper); }

body {
  color: var(--ink);
  background: var(--paper);
  font-size: 17px;
  font-weight: 360;
}

body::after { opacity: 0.22; }

::selection { background: var(--gold); color: var(--ink); }

.skip-link {
  position: fixed;
  top: 0.75rem;
  left: 0.75rem;
  z-index: 20000;
  padding: 0.7rem 1rem;
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  background: var(--ink);
  transform: translateY(-150%);
  transition: transform 0.2s ease;
}

.skip-link:focus { transform: translateY(0); }

.container { max-width: 1320px; }

.kicker {
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  color: var(--accent-deep);
  font-size: 0.69rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.18em;
}

.kicker::before { background: currentColor; }

.btn {
  border-radius: 4px;
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.78rem;
  font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: 0.04em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  padding: 1rem 1.3rem;
}

.btn-primary {
  background: var(--accent);
  box-shadow: 5px 5px 0 var(--ink);
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
}

.btn-primary:hover {
  background: var(--accent-deep);
  box-shadow: 2px 2px 0 var(--ink);
  transform: translate(3px, 3px);
}

.btn-paper {
  color: var(--ink);
  background: var(--cream-on-dark);
  box-shadow: 5px 5px 0 var(--accent);
}

.btn-paper:hover {
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  background: var(--accent);
  box-shadow: 2px 2px 0 var(--cream-on-dark);
  transform: translate(3px, 3px);
}

.text-link {
  display: inline-flex;
  align-items: center;
  gap: 0.5rem;
  padding-bottom: 0.15rem;
  color: var(--ink);
  border-bottom: 1px solid currentColor;
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.78rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.03em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
}

.text-link span { transition: transform 0.25s ease; }
.text-link:hover { color: var(--accent-deep); }
.text-link:hover span { transform: translateX(5px); }
.text-link.strong { font-weight: 500; }

/* Navigation */
.journal-nav {
  background: rgba(243, 238, 227, 0.88);
  border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.12);
  backdrop-filter: blur(14px);
  -webkit-backdrop-filter: blur(14px);
}

.journal-nav.scrolled {
  background: rgba(255, 250, 240, 0.94);
  border-bottom-color: rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.16);
  box-shadow: 0 8px 30px rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.07);
}

.journal-nav .container { height: 74px; }

.nav-logo {
  align-items: center;
  gap: 0.65rem;
  font-size: 1.24rem;
}

.logo-mark {
  display: grid;
  place-items: center;
  width: 29px;
  height: 29px;
  border: 1.5px solid var(--ink);
  border-radius: 50%;
  color: var(--accent);
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.9rem;
  transition: transform 0.35s ease, background 0.35s ease;
}

.nav-logo:hover .logo-mark {
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  background: var(--accent);
  transform: translate(2px, -2px) rotate(9deg);
}

.nav-links { gap: clamp(1.2rem, 2.6vw, 2.4rem); }

.nav-links a {
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.72rem;
  font-weight: 400;
  letter-spacing: 0.05em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
}

.nav-links .nav-pill {
  display: inline-flex;
  align-items: center;
  gap: 0.4rem;
  padding: 0.42rem 0.85rem;
  border-radius: 3px;
  border-color: var(--ink);
}

.nav-links .nav-pill span {
  color: var(--accent-deep);
  font-weight: 500;
}

/* Homepage hero */
.notebook-hero {
  position: relative;
  min-height: 100svh;
  padding: 128px 0 76px;
  overflow: hidden;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--ink);
  background:
    linear-gradient(rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.055) 1px, transparent 1px),
    linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.055) 1px, transparent 1px),
    var(--paper);
  background-size: 36px 36px;
}

.notebook-hero::before {
  content: '';
  position: absolute;
  inset: 0 auto 0 5.5vw;
  width: 1px;
  background: rgba(239, 98, 73, 0.38);
}

.hero-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.06fr) minmax(420px, 0.94fr);
  gap: clamp(3rem, 6vw, 7rem);
  align-items: center;
}

.hero-copy { position: relative; z-index: 3; }

.eyebrow-line {
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 1.5rem;
  max-width: 550px;
  margin-bottom: clamp(2.2rem, 5vw, 4rem);
  padding-bottom: 0.7rem;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--ink);
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.66rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.1em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
}

.eyebrow-line span:last-child { color: var(--accent-deep); }

.hero-copy h1 {
  max-width: 800px;
  margin-bottom: 1.8rem;
  font-size: clamp(3.25rem, 6.5vw, 6.4rem);
  font-weight: 450;
  line-height: 0.94;
  letter-spacing: -0.055em;
}

.hero-copy h1 em {
  position: relative;
  color: var(--accent);
  font-weight: 380;
}

.hero-copy h1 em::after {
  content: '';
  position: absolute;
  left: 3%;
  right: -2%;
  bottom: 0.08em;
  height: 0.12em;
  z-index: -1;
  background: var(--gold);
  transform: rotate(-1deg);
  opacity: 0.65;
}

.hero-lede {
  max-width: 630px;
  margin-bottom: 2rem;
  color: #444b50;
  font-size: clamp(1.08rem, 1.8vw, 1.3rem);
  line-height: 1.65;
}

.hero-cta-row {
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  gap: 1.6rem;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
}

.hero-footnote {
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  gap: 0.65rem;
  margin-top: 2.3rem;
  color: var(--ink-soft);
  font-family: var(--font-hand);
  font-size: 1.25rem;
}

.scribble-arrow {
  color: var(--accent);
  font-family: var(--font-hand);
  font-size: 1.9rem;
  transform: rotate(-10deg);
}

.hero-collage {
  position: relative;
  min-height: 610px;
  isolation: isolate;
}

.collage-card {
  position: absolute;
  margin: 0;
  padding: 0.72rem 0.72rem 2.8rem;
  background: var(--cream-on-dark);
  box-shadow: var(--shadow-lg);
}

.collage-card img {
  width: 100%;
  height: 100%;
  object-fit: cover;
  filter: saturate(0.86) contrast(1.03);
}

.collage-card figcaption {
  position: absolute;
  inset: auto 0 0.45rem;
  text-align: center;
  font-family: var(--font-hand);
  font-size: 1.15rem;
  font-weight: 600;
  color: var(--ink-soft);
}

.collage-landscape {
  inset: 5% 0 auto 3%;
  width: 82%;
  height: 430px;
  transform: rotate(3.2deg);
  animation: floatLandscape 7s ease-in-out infinite;
}

.collage-portrait {
  right: 2%;
  bottom: 1%;
  width: 42%;
  height: 330px;
  z-index: 3;
  transform: rotate(-5deg);
  animation: floatPortraitNew 6s ease-in-out -2s infinite;
}

.paperclip {
  position: absolute;
  top: -22px;
  right: 24px;
  width: 21px;
  height: 58px;
  z-index: 2;
  border: 3px solid #6e716f;
  border-radius: 10px;
  transform: rotate(7deg);
}

.passport-seal {
  position: absolute;
  left: -1%;
  bottom: 6%;
  z-index: 4;
  display: grid;
  place-items: center;
  width: 145px;
  height: 145px;
  padding: 1rem;
  text-align: center;
  border: 3px double var(--accent-deep);
  border-radius: 50%;
  color: var(--accent-deep);
  background: rgba(243, 238, 227, 0.85);
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.61rem;
  line-height: 1.25;
  letter-spacing: 0.08em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  transform: rotate(-12deg);
}

.passport-seal::before,
.passport-seal::after {
  content: '✦';
  position: absolute;
  top: 50%;
  transform: translateY(-50%);
}

.passport-seal::before { left: 10px; }
.passport-seal::after { right: 10px; }

.seal-number {
  display: block;
  margin-bottom: -0.2rem;
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-size: 3rem;
  font-weight: 600;
  line-height: 1;
}

.sun-doodle {
  position: absolute;
  top: -2%;
  right: 2%;
  width: 112px;
  height: 112px;
  border: 2px dashed var(--accent);
  border-radius: 50%;
  animation: slowSpin 24s linear infinite;
}

.sun-doodle span {
  position: absolute;
  inset: 20px;
  border-radius: 50%;
  background: var(--gold);
}

.hero-route {
  position: absolute;
  inset: 0;
  width: 100%;
  height: 100%;
  z-index: -1;
  overflow: visible;
}

.hero-route path {
  fill: none;
  stroke: var(--accent);
  stroke-width: 2;
  stroke-dasharray: 3 9;
  opacity: 0.85;
}

.route-dot { fill: var(--ink); }

.hero-margin-note {
  position: absolute;
  right: -1.7rem;
  top: 48%;
  color: rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.48);
  font-family: var(--font-hand);
  font-size: 1.15rem;
  line-height: 1;
  transform: rotate(90deg);
}

@keyframes slowSpin { to { transform: rotate(360deg); } }
@keyframes floatLandscape { 0%,100% { translate: 0 0; rotate: 3.2deg; } 50% { translate: 0 -8px; rotate: 2.2deg; } }
@keyframes floatPortraitNew { 0%,100% { translate: 0 0; rotate: -5deg; } 50% { translate: 0 10px; rotate: -3.5deg; } }

/* Moving train stats */
.train-line {
  position: relative;
  padding: 0;
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  background: var(--ink);
  overflow: hidden;
}

.train-track {
  position: relative;
  height: 34px;
  border-bottom: 1px dashed rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.32);
}

.tiny-train {
  position: absolute;
  left: -70px;
  bottom: -3px;
  color: var(--gold);
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  letter-spacing: -0.2em;
  animation: trainRide 16s linear infinite;
}

@keyframes trainRide { to { left: calc(100% + 30px); } }

.train-facts {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr);
  padding-top: 2.1rem;
  padding-bottom: 2.3rem;
}

.train-facts div {
  display: flex;
  align-items: baseline;
  justify-content: center;
  gap: 0.75rem;
  padding: 0 1.5rem;
  border-right: 1px solid rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.22);
}

.train-facts div:last-child { border-right: 0; }

.train-facts strong {
  color: var(--gold);
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-size: 2.2rem;
  font-weight: 480;
}

.train-facts span {
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.67rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.05em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
}

/* Shared chapter layout */
.chapter-section { padding: clamp(5rem, 10vw, 9rem) 0; }

/* Keep deep-linked chapters visible even before the reveal observer ticks. */
.chapter-section:target [data-reveal],
.atlas-preview:target [data-reveal],
.writing-desk:target [data-reveal] {
  opacity: 1;
  transform: none;
}

.chapter-heading {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 76px 1fr;
  gap: 1.5rem;
  align-items: start;
  margin-bottom: clamp(3.2rem, 6vw, 5.5rem);
}

.chapter-heading.light { color: var(--cream-on-dark); }

.chapter-no {
  display: grid;
  place-items: center;
  width: 64px;
  height: 64px;
  border: 1px solid currentColor;
  border-radius: 50%;
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.73rem;
}

.chapter-heading .kicker { margin-bottom: 0.7rem; }

.chapter-heading h2 {
  font-size: clamp(2.6rem, 5.2vw, 5rem);
  font-weight: 430;
  letter-spacing: -0.045em;
}

.chapter-heading h2 em { color: var(--accent); font-weight: 360; }

.origin-chapter {
  background:
    radial-gradient(circle at 83% 16%, rgba(239, 200, 95, 0.32), transparent 25%),
    var(--cream-on-dark);
}

.origin-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(300px, 0.72fr) minmax(520px, 1.28fr);
  gap: clamp(3rem, 7vw, 7rem);
  align-items: center;
}

.origin-story { max-width: 580px; }

.origin-story p {
  margin-bottom: 1.25rem;
  color: #4d5355;
  font-size: 1.02rem;
}

.origin-story .lead-dropcap {
  color: var(--ink);
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-size: clamp(1.35rem, 2vw, 1.65rem);
  line-height: 1.5;
}

.lead-dropcap::first-letter {
  float: left;
  margin: 0.05em 0.12em 0 0;
  color: var(--accent);
  font-size: 4.2rem;
  line-height: 0.75;
}

.origin-story .text-link { margin-top: 1rem; }

.three-moments {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(12, 1fr);
  grid-template-rows: repeat(8, 54px);
  min-height: 500px;
}

.moment {
  position: relative;
  margin: 0;
  padding: 0.55rem 0.55rem 3.5rem;
  background: var(--paper);
  box-shadow: var(--shadow-md);
  transition: transform 0.35s ease, z-index 0s;
}

.moment:hover { z-index: 5; transform: rotate(0) translateY(-10px); }

.moment img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }

.moment figcaption {
  position: absolute;
  inset: auto 0.8rem 0.65rem;
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  gap: 0.65rem;
  font-family: var(--font-hand);
  font-size: 1.1rem;
  font-weight: 600;
}

.moment figcaption b {
  color: var(--accent-deep);
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.6rem;
}

.moment-one { grid-area: 1 / 1 / 6 / 7; transform: rotate(-4deg); }
.moment-two { grid-area: 2 / 7 / 7 / 13; transform: rotate(4deg); }
.moment-three { grid-area: 5 / 3 / 9 / 10; z-index: 2; transform: rotate(-1deg); }

/* Atlas preview */
.atlas-preview {
  padding: clamp(5rem, 10vw, 9rem) 0;
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  background:
    radial-gradient(circle at 20% 0%, rgba(47, 129, 120, 0.4), transparent 32%),
    linear-gradient(135deg, var(--night), #0f1d2a);
  overflow: hidden;
}

.atlas-preview .chapter-heading {
  grid-template-columns: 76px 1fr minmax(260px, 0.42fr);
  align-items: end;
}

.atlas-preview .kicker { color: var(--gold); }
.atlas-preview .kicker::before { background: var(--gold); }

.heading-aside {
  max-width: 430px;
  color: rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.7);
  font-size: 0.96rem;
}

.country-ribbon {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(6, minmax(145px, 1fr));
  gap: 0.85rem;
  perspective: 1000px;
}

.country-tag {
  position: relative;
  display: flex;
  min-height: 240px;
  flex-direction: column;
  justify-content: flex-end;
  padding: 1.3rem 1.1rem;
  border: 1px solid rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.32);
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  background: rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.055);
  transition: transform 0.35s ease, background 0.35s ease, border-color 0.35s ease;
}

.country-tag:nth-child(odd) { transform: translateY(16px); }
.country-tag:hover { z-index: 2; background: var(--sage); border-color: var(--cream-on-dark); transform: translateY(-10px) rotate(-1deg); }
.country-tag:nth-child(odd):hover { transform: translateY(-10px) rotate(1deg); }

.country-tag > span {
  position: absolute;
  top: 1rem;
  right: 1rem;
  font-size: 2rem;
  filter: saturate(0.85);
}

.country-tag b {
  display: block;
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-size: clamp(1.4rem, 2vw, 2rem);
  font-weight: 440;
}

.country-tag small {
  color: rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.6);
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.58rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.08em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
}

.country-tag.featured-tag {
  color: var(--ink);
  border-color: var(--gold);
  background: var(--gold);
}

.country-tag.featured-tag small { color: rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.65); }

.atlas-bottom {
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 2rem;
  margin-top: 4.5rem;
}

.atlas-bottom .hand-note { color: var(--gold); }

/* Writing desk */
.writing-desk {
  padding: clamp(5rem, 10vw, 9rem) 0;
  background: var(--paper-2);
}

.desk-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(400px, 1fr) minmax(340px, 0.85fr);
  gap: clamp(3rem, 8vw, 8rem);
  align-items: center;
}

.desk-image-wrap {
  position: relative;
  padding: 1rem;
  background: var(--cream-on-dark);
  box-shadow: var(--shadow-lg);
  transform: rotate(-1.7deg);
}

.desk-image-wrap img {
  width: 100%;
  aspect-ratio: 3 / 2;
  object-fit: cover;
  filter: saturate(0.8) sepia(0.08);
}

.tape {
  position: absolute;
  width: 105px;
  height: 28px;
  background: rgba(239, 200, 95, 0.62);
  border-left: 1px dashed rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.2);
  border-right: 1px dashed rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.2);
}

.tape-one { top: -12px; left: 13%; transform: rotate(-8deg); }
.tape-two { right: 8%; bottom: -11px; transform: rotate(8deg); }

.desk-copy h2 {
  margin-bottom: 1.5rem;
  font-size: clamp(2.65rem, 5vw, 4.7rem);
  font-weight: 430;
  letter-spacing: -0.04em;
}

.desk-copy h2 em { color: var(--accent); font-weight: 360; }
.desk-copy > p { color: #4f5557; }

.draft-list {
  display: grid;
  gap: 0;
  margin: 2rem 0;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--ink);
}

.draft-list span {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 42px 1fr;
  gap: 0.8rem;
  padding: 0.78rem 0;
  border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.3);
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-size: 1.05rem;
}

.draft-list i {
  color: var(--accent-deep);
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.6rem;
  font-style: normal;
}

.closing-note {
  padding: clamp(4.5rem, 8vw, 7rem) 0;
  background: var(--accent);
}

.closing-script {
  max-width: 980px;
  margin: 0 auto 2.5rem;
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-size: clamp(2.4rem, 5.5vw, 5.2rem);
  font-style: italic;
  line-height: 1.1;
  text-align: center;
  text-wrap: balance;
}

.closing-actions {
  display: flex;
  justify-content: center;
  gap: 1.5rem;
  color: var(--ink);
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.68rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.06em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
}

.closing-actions a { padding-bottom: 0.15rem; border-bottom: 1px solid currentColor; font-weight: 500; }

/* Dedicated atlas page */
.atlas-hero {
  position: relative;
  padding: 130px 0 2.2rem;
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  background:
    linear-gradient(rgba(255,255,255,0.035) 1px, transparent 1px),
    linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(255,255,255,0.035) 1px, transparent 1px),
    var(--night);
  background-size: 40px 40px;
  overflow: hidden;
}

.atlas-hero::after {
  content: '';
  position: absolute;
  right: -90px;
  bottom: -190px;
  width: 500px;
  height: 500px;
  border: 1px dashed rgba(255,248,235,0.16);
  border-radius: 50%;
}

.atlas-hero-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.08fr) minmax(360px, 0.72fr);
  gap: clamp(3rem, 8vw, 8rem);
  align-items: center;
  min-height: 610px;
}

.atlas-hero .eyebrow-line { border-color: rgba(255,248,235,0.6); }

.atlas-hero h1 {
  margin-bottom: 2rem;
  font-size: clamp(4rem, 8.4vw, 8.4rem);
  font-weight: 400;
  line-height: 0.86;
  letter-spacing: -0.055em;
}

.atlas-hero h1 > span { color: var(--gold); }
.atlas-hero h1 em { color: var(--accent); font-weight: 330; }
.atlas-hero-grid > div:first-child > p:last-child { max-width: 670px; color: rgba(255,248,235,0.7); font-size: 1.08rem; }

.atlas-hero-art {
  position: relative;
  width: min(100%, 480px);
  margin-left: auto;
  padding: 0.8rem 0.8rem 3.2rem;
  color: var(--ink);
  background: var(--cream-on-dark);
  box-shadow: 20px 20px 0 var(--sage);
  transform: rotate(3deg);
}

.atlas-hero-art img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 3.15; object-fit: cover; filter: saturate(0.82); }

.atlas-hero-art > p {
  position: absolute;
  left: -34px;
  bottom: 18px;
  color: var(--gold);
  font-family: var(--font-hand);
  font-size: 1.55rem;
  font-weight: 600;
  line-height: 0.8;
  text-align: center;
  transform: rotate(-13deg);
}

.atlas-hero-art > p i { font-size: 0.85rem; font-weight: 400; }

.compass-doodle {
  position: absolute;
  right: -45px;
  top: -55px;
  display: grid;
  place-items: center;
  width: 115px;
  height: 115px;
  border: 1px dashed var(--gold);
  border-radius: 50%;
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
}

.compass-doodle b { position: absolute; top: -2px; font: 500 0.65rem var(--font-mono); }
.compass-doodle i { width: 1px; height: 84px; background: var(--accent); transform: rotate(28deg); }
.compass-doodle span { position: absolute; font-size: 1.5rem; }

.atlas-key {
  position: relative;
  z-index: 2;
  display: flex;
  gap: 2rem;
  padding-top: 1.4rem;
  border-top: 1px solid rgba(255,248,235,0.22);
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.62rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.05em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
}

.atlas-key span { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 0.55rem; }
.key-dot { width: 9px; height: 9px; border-radius: 50%; background: var(--cream-on-dark); }
.key-home { background: var(--sage); }
.key-origin { background: var(--gold); }
.key-pin { background: var(--accent); }

.atlas-index { padding: clamp(5rem, 9vw, 8rem) 0; background: var(--cream-on-dark); }

.atlas-intro {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 1fr minmax(280px, 0.55fr);
  gap: 3rem;
  align-items: end;
  margin-bottom: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 7rem);
}

.atlas-intro h2 {
  font-size: clamp(3rem, 6vw, 5.8rem);
  font-weight: 420;
  letter-spacing: -0.05em;
}

.atlas-intro h2 em { color: var(--accent); font-weight: 350; }
.atlas-intro > p { color: var(--ink-soft); }

.region-block {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(180px, 0.28fr) 1fr;
  gap: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 5rem);
  padding: 3.5rem 0;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--ink);
}

.region-block.final-region { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--ink); }

.region-label { position: sticky; top: 110px; align-self: start; }

.region-label > span {
  display: inline-block;
  margin-bottom: 0.8rem;
  color: var(--accent-deep);
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.66rem;
}

.region-label h3 { font-size: clamp(1.35rem, 2vw, 1.8rem); font-weight: 480; }
.region-label small { font-family: var(--font-mono); color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 0.58rem; letter-spacing: 0.08em; text-transform: uppercase; }

.country-index-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr));
  gap: 0.7rem;
}

.atlas-country {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 42px 1fr auto;
  grid-template-rows: auto auto;
  column-gap: 0.8rem;
  align-items: center;
  min-height: 82px;
  padding: 0.9rem 1rem;
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  background: var(--paper);
  transition: transform 0.25s ease, color 0.25s ease, background 0.25s ease, box-shadow 0.25s ease;
}

.atlas-country:hover {
  z-index: 2;
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  background: var(--ink);
  box-shadow: 5px 5px 0 var(--accent);
  transform: translate(-3px, -3px);
}

.atlas-country > span { grid-row: 1 / 3; font-size: 1.7rem; }
.atlas-country b { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: 1.15rem; font-weight: 520; }
.atlas-country small { grid-column: 2; color: var(--ink-soft); font-family: var(--font-mono); font-size: 0.55rem; letter-spacing: 0.07em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.atlas-country:hover small { color: rgba(255,248,235,0.65); }
.atlas-country i { grid-column: 3; grid-row: 1 / 3; font-style: normal; }

.origin-country { background: var(--gold); border-color: var(--gold); }
.home-country { color: var(--cream-on-dark); background: var(--sage); border-color: var(--sage); }
.home-country small { color: rgba(255,248,235,0.7); }

.atlas-postscript {
  padding: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 7rem) 0;
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  background: var(--accent);
}

.atlas-postscript .container {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 90px 1fr auto;
  gap: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 5rem);
  align-items: center;
}

.postscript-mark { font-size: 4rem; animation: slowSpin 18s linear infinite; }
.atlas-postscript .kicker { color: var(--ink); }
.atlas-postscript h2 { font-size: clamp(2.5rem, 4.5vw, 4.5rem); font-weight: 430; }
.atlas-postscript h2 em { color: var(--ink); font-weight: 350; }
.atlas-postscript p:last-child { max-width: 680px; color: rgba(255,248,235,0.78); }

/* Notes page */
.notes-hero {
  padding: 135px 0 clamp(5rem, 10vw, 9rem);
  overflow: hidden;
  background:
    linear-gradient(90deg, transparent 0 8%, rgba(239,98,73,0.32) 8% calc(8% + 1px), transparent calc(8% + 1px)),
    repeating-linear-gradient(0deg, transparent 0 35px, rgba(23,37,55,0.065) 35px 36px),
    var(--paper);
}

.notes-hero-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 0.95fr) minmax(420px, 0.8fr);
  gap: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 8rem);
  align-items: center;
}

.notes-copy h1 {
  margin-bottom: 1.6rem;
  font-size: clamp(3.4rem, 7vw, 7rem);
  font-weight: 420;
  letter-spacing: -0.055em;
  line-height: 0.92;
}

.notes-copy h1 em { color: var(--accent); font-weight: 350; }
.notes-copy > p:not(.eyebrow-line) { max-width: 650px; color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 1.08rem; }
.notes-copy .hand-note { display: block; margin-top: 1.5rem; color: var(--accent-deep); }

.notes-visual {
  position: relative;
  margin: 0;
  padding: 0.8rem 0.8rem 3.3rem;
  background: var(--cream-on-dark);
  box-shadow: var(--shadow-lg);
  transform: rotate(2.5deg);
}

.notes-visual img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover; filter: saturate(0.75); }
.notes-visual figcaption { position: absolute; inset: auto 0 0.65rem; text-align: center; font-family: var(--font-hand); font-size: 1.2rem; }
.notes-visual .tape { top: -13px; left: 35%; transform: rotate(-4deg); }

.drafts-section { padding: clamp(5rem, 9vw, 8rem) 0; background: var(--cream-on-dark); }

.draft-cards { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: 1.2rem; }

.draft-card {
  position: relative;
  min-height: 410px;
  padding: 2rem;
  border: 1px solid var(--ink);
  background: var(--paper);
  overflow: hidden;
  transition: transform 0.3s ease, box-shadow 0.3s ease;
}

.draft-card::after {
  content: '';
  position: absolute;
  right: -28px;
  bottom: -28px;
  width: 92px;
  height: 92px;
  border: 1px dashed var(--accent);
  border-radius: 50%;
}

.draft-card:nth-child(2) { transform: translateY(24px); }
.draft-card:hover { z-index: 2; box-shadow: 8px 8px 0 var(--accent); transform: translate(-4px, -4px) rotate(-0.5deg); }
.draft-card:nth-child(2):hover { transform: translate(-4px, 20px) rotate(0.5deg); }

.draft-status {
  display: inline-block;
  margin-bottom: 4.5rem;
  padding: 0.35rem 0.55rem;
  color: var(--accent-deep);
  border: 1px solid currentColor;
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.55rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.07em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  transform: rotate(-2deg);
}

.draft-card > b { display: block; color: var(--accent); font: 500 0.65rem var(--font-mono); }
.draft-card h3 { margin: 0.8rem 0 1.1rem; font-size: clamp(1.5rem, 2.3vw, 2.2rem); font-weight: 470; }
.draft-card p { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 0.93rem; }
.draft-card small { position: absolute; left: 2rem; bottom: 1.5rem; font-family: var(--font-mono); font-size: 0.56rem; letter-spacing: 0.06em; text-transform: uppercase; }

.notes-process { padding: clamp(5rem, 9vw, 8rem) 0; background: var(--paper-2); }
.process-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(270px, 0.55fr) 1fr; gap: clamp(3rem, 8vw, 8rem); align-items: center; max-width: 1100px; }
.process-portrait { position: relative; padding: 0.75rem 0.75rem 3.1rem; background: var(--cream-on-dark); box-shadow: var(--shadow-lg); transform: rotate(-4deg); }
.process-portrait img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 4.6; object-fit: cover; }
.portrait-label { position: absolute; inset: auto 0 0.55rem; text-align: center; font-family: var(--font-hand); font-size: 1.2rem; }
.process-grid h2 { margin-bottom: 1.5rem; font-size: clamp(2.8rem, 5.4vw, 5rem); font-weight: 430; letter-spacing: -0.045em; }
.process-grid h2 em { color: var(--accent); font-weight: 350; }
.process-grid > div:last-child > p { max-width: 650px; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.process-links { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 1.6rem; margin-top: 2rem; flex-wrap: wrap; }

/* About page gets the same editorial palette */
.about-page .about-hero-section {
  background:
    linear-gradient(rgba(23,37,55,0.045) 1px, transparent 1px),
    linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(23,37,55,0.045) 1px, transparent 1px),
    var(--paper);
  background-size: 36px 36px;
}

.about-page .about-hero-section::before { display: none; }
.about-page .about-intro h1 { font-size: clamp(3.2rem, 6vw, 5.6rem); font-weight: 430; letter-spacing: -0.05em; }
.about-page .about-intro h1 .flourish { color: var(--accent); }
.about-page .about-quick-stats div { border-radius: 0; border-color: var(--ink); background: var(--cream-on-dark); box-shadow: none; }
.about-page .about-quick-stats strong { color: var(--accent-deep); }
.about-page section.alt { background: var(--paper-2); }
.about-page .value-card,
.about-page .journey-scene { border-radius: 0; border-color: var(--line); background: var(--cream-on-dark); }
.about-page .value-card { border-top: 4px solid var(--accent); }
.about-page .passport-chip { border-radius: 0; }
.about-page .page-hero { background: var(--paper); }

/* Footer */
.journal-footer,
body .footer {
  padding: clamp(3.5rem, 7vw, 6rem) 0 1.5rem;
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  background: #0f1d2a;
}

.footer-topline {
  display: flex;
  align-items: baseline;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 2rem;
  padding-bottom: 2rem;
  border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255,248,235,0.23);
}

.journal-footer .footer-wordmark,
body .footer-wordmark {
  margin: 0;
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  font-size: clamp(2.4rem, 5vw, 4.5rem);
  font-weight: 430;
}

.journal-footer .footer-wordmark em,
body .footer-wordmark em { color: var(--accent); }

.footer-topline > span {
  color: rgba(255,248,235,0.55);
  font: 400 0.65rem var(--font-mono);
  letter-spacing: 0.08em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
}

.journal-footer .footer-grid,
body .footer-grid {
  margin-top: 2.5rem;
  padding-top: 0;
  border-top: 0;
}

.compact-footer { grid-template-columns: 1.8fr 0.65fr 0.65fr; }
.journal-footer h4,
body .footer h4 { color: var(--gold); font-family: var(--font-mono); font-size: 0.61rem; letter-spacing: 0.11em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.journal-footer p,
.journal-footer a,
body .footer p,
body .footer a { color: rgba(255,248,235,0.7); }
.journal-footer a:hover,
body .footer a:hover { color: var(--accent); }
.journal-footer .footer-bottom,
body .footer-bottom { border-color: rgba(255,248,235,0.18); }
.journal-footer .footer-bottom .hand-note,
body .footer-bottom .hand-note { color: var(--gold); }

/* Responsive */
@media (max-width: 1100px) {
  .hero-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 420px; gap: 2.5rem; }
  .hero-copy h1 { font-size: clamp(3.25rem, 6vw, 5.3rem); }
  .hero-collage { min-height: 530px; }
  .collage-landscape { height: 350px; }
  .collage-portrait { width: 47%; height: 290px; }
  .origin-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .three-moments { max-width: 800px; width: 100%; margin: 0 auto; }
  .country-ribbon { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); }
  .country-tag:nth-child(odd) { transform: none; }
  .country-tag { min-height: 190px; }
  .atlas-preview .chapter-heading { grid-template-columns: 76px 1fr; }
  .heading-aside { grid-column: 2; }
  .desk-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 0.85fr; gap: 3.5rem; }
  .atlas-hero-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 380px; gap: 3.5rem; }
  .atlas-hero h1 { font-size: clamp(4rem, 7.5vw, 7rem); }
}

@media (max-width: 820px) {
  /* A filtered ancestor traps position:fixed children; remove the blur so the
     mobile menu can correctly fill the viewport. */
  .journal-nav,
  .journal-nav.scrolled {
    backdrop-filter: none;
    -webkit-backdrop-filter: none;
  }
  .journal-nav .container { height: 68px; }
  .journal-nav.menu-open .nav-logo {
    position: fixed;
    top: 19px;
    left: 20px;
    z-index: 1200;
  }
  .journal-nav.menu-open .nav-toggle {
    position: fixed;
    top: 12px;
    right: 14px;
    z-index: 1200;
  }
  .nav-links { background: var(--paper); }
  .nav-links a { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: 2rem; text-transform: none; letter-spacing: -0.02em; }
  .nav-links .nav-pill { font-family: var(--font-mono); font-size: 0.8rem; text-transform: uppercase; }
  .notebook-hero { min-height: auto; padding-top: 118px; }
  .hero-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .hero-copy h1 { max-width: 700px; }
  .hero-collage { width: min(100%, 620px); margin: 0 auto; }
  .hero-margin-note { display: none; }
  .train-facts { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .train-facts div { justify-content: flex-start; padding: 0.5rem 0; border-right: 0; border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255,248,235,0.18); }
  .train-facts div:last-child { border-bottom: 0; }
  .chapter-heading { grid-template-columns: 55px 1fr; gap: 1rem; }
  .chapter-no { width: 48px; height: 48px; }
  .three-moments { grid-template-rows: repeat(8, 44px); }
  .atlas-preview .chapter-heading { grid-template-columns: 55px 1fr; }
  .country-ribbon { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }
  .desk-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .desk-image-wrap { max-width: 700px; }
  .atlas-hero-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; min-height: auto; }
  .atlas-hero-art { width: min(85%, 480px); margin: 1rem auto 3rem; }
  .atlas-intro { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .region-block { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .region-label { position: static; }
  .atlas-postscript .container { grid-template-columns: 60px 1fr; }
  .atlas-postscript .btn { grid-column: 2; justify-self: start; }
  .notes-hero-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .notes-visual { max-width: 650px; }
  .draft-cards { grid-template-columns: 1fr; max-width: 650px; }
  .draft-card:nth-child(2) { transform: none; }
  .draft-card:nth-child(2):hover { transform: translate(-4px, -4px) rotate(0.5deg); }
  .draft-card { min-height: 350px; }
  .process-grid { grid-template-columns: minmax(220px, 0.48fr) 1fr; gap: 3rem; }
  .compact-footer { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .compact-footer .footer-about { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
}

@media (max-width: 560px) {
  body { font-size: 16px; }
  .nav-logo { font-size: 1.05rem; }
  .logo-mark { width: 26px; height: 26px; }
  .notebook-hero { padding-top: 105px; }
  .eyebrow-line { margin-bottom: 2.2rem; font-size: 0.55rem; }
  .hero-copy h1 { font-size: clamp(3rem, 14vw, 4.5rem); line-height: 0.98; }
  .hero-cta-row { align-items: flex-start; flex-direction: column; }
  .hero-collage { min-height: 430px; margin-top: 1rem; }
  .collage-landscape { inset: 3% 1% auto 1%; width: 90%; height: 290px; }
  .collage-portrait { right: 0; width: 46%; height: 225px; }
  .passport-seal { width: 105px; height: 105px; font-size: 0.48rem; }
  .seal-number { font-size: 2rem; }
  .sun-doodle { width: 76px; height: 76px; }
  .sun-doodle span { inset: 15px; }
  .chapter-heading { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .chapter-heading h2 { font-size: clamp(2.6rem, 12vw, 4rem); }
  .three-moments { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr; grid-template-rows: auto; gap: 1.3rem; min-height: 0; }
  .moment-one,.moment-two,.moment-three { grid-area: auto; height: 320px; transform: none; }
  .country-ribbon { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .country-tag { min-height: 160px; }
  .atlas-bottom { align-items: flex-start; flex-direction: column; }
  .closing-actions { align-items: center; flex-direction: column; }
  .atlas-hero { padding-top: 105px; }
  .atlas-hero h1 { font-size: clamp(3.7rem, 18vw, 6rem); }
  .atlas-hero-art { width: 88%; margin-right: 1.8rem; }
  .atlas-key { align-items: flex-start; flex-direction: column; gap: 0.65rem; }
  .country-index-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .atlas-postscript .container { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .postscript-mark { font-size: 2.6rem; }
  .atlas-postscript .btn { grid-column: auto; }
  .notes-copy h1 { font-size: clamp(3.1rem, 15vw, 5rem); }
  .draft-card { min-height: 380px; padding: 1.5rem; }
  .draft-card small { left: 1.5rem; }
  .process-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .process-portrait { width: min(82%, 370px); margin: 0 auto; }
  .footer-topline { align-items: flex-start; flex-direction: column; }
  .compact-footer { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .compact-footer .footer-about { grid-column: auto; }
}

@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  .tiny-train,
  .sun-doodle,
  .collage-landscape,
  .collage-portrait,
  .postscript-mark { animation: none !important; }
  .route-dot { display: none; }
}

/* Bulgaria: a chronological photo essay */
.bulgaria-story .place-hero {
  min-height: 88svh;
  padding-top: 140px;
  align-items: flex-end;
  border-bottom: 0;
}

.bulgaria-story .place-hero .bg img {
  object-position: 50% 56%;
  scale: 1.035;
}

.bulgaria-story .place-hero .shade {
  background:
    linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(9, 22, 34, 0.25) 0%, rgba(9, 22, 34, 0.06) 36%, rgba(9, 22, 34, 0.82) 100%),
    linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(9, 22, 34, 0.44), transparent 62%);
}

.bulgaria-story .place-hero .container { padding-bottom: clamp(3rem, 7vw, 6rem); }
.bulgaria-story .place-hero h1 {
  max-width: 900px;
  margin-bottom: 1rem;
  font-size: clamp(5rem, 12vw, 10.5rem);
  font-weight: 390;
  letter-spacing: -0.075em;
  line-height: 0.78;
}

.bulgaria-story .place-hero .tagline {
  max-width: 780px;
  margin: 1.8rem 0 0;
  color: rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.88);
  font-size: clamp(1.05rem, 2vw, 1.35rem);
}

.bulgaria-story .place-hero .flag-stamp {
  right: 7%;
  bottom: 15%;
  border-color: rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.72);
  background: rgba(15, 29, 42, 0.34);
  backdrop-filter: blur(8px);
  animation: bg-stamp-float 5s ease-in-out infinite;
}

@keyframes bg-stamp-float {
  0%, 100% { transform: rotate(7deg) translateY(0); }
  50% { transform: rotate(4deg) translateY(-10px); }
}

.route-intro {
  padding: clamp(3.5rem, 7vw, 6rem) 0 clamp(5rem, 9vw, 8rem);
  background:
    linear-gradient(rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.05) 1px, transparent 1px),
    linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.05) 1px, transparent 1px),
    var(--paper);
  background-size: 34px 34px;
}

.story-dateline {
  display: flex;
  justify-content: center;
  gap: 0;
  margin-bottom: 2.4rem;
  color: var(--ink-soft);
  font: 500 0.65rem var(--font-mono);
  letter-spacing: 0.1em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
}

.story-dateline span { padding: 0 1rem; border-right: 1px solid var(--line); }
.story-dateline span:last-child { border-right: 0; }

.route-card {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: auto minmax(54px, 1fr) auto minmax(54px, 1fr) auto minmax(54px, 1fr) auto;
  align-items: center;
  max-width: 1060px;
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 1.5rem clamp(1rem, 3vw, 2.3rem);
  border: 1px solid var(--ink);
  background: var(--cream-on-dark);
  box-shadow: 8px 8px 0 var(--accent);
}

.route-stop { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 0.7rem; white-space: nowrap; }
.route-stop b {
  display: grid;
  place-items: center;
  width: 38px;
  height: 38px;
  border-radius: 50%;
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  background: var(--ink);
  font: 500 0.67rem var(--font-mono);
}

.route-stop.is-mountain b { background: var(--sage); }
.route-stop strong { display: block; font-size: 1.12rem; font-weight: 550; }
.route-stop small { display: block; margin-top: 0.18rem; color: var(--ink-soft); font: 400 0.58rem var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.05em; text-transform: uppercase; }

.route-track { position: relative; height: 1px; margin: 0 0.7rem; overflow: visible; background: repeating-linear-gradient(90deg, var(--ink) 0 5px, transparent 5px 10px); }
.route-track span {
  position: absolute;
  top: 50%;
  left: 0;
  z-index: 2;
  padding: 0 0.25rem;
  color: var(--accent-deep);
  background: var(--cream-on-dark);
  font-size: 0.9rem;
  transform: translateY(-54%) rotate(7deg);
  animation: bg-route-fly 5.8s ease-in-out infinite;
}

.route-track:nth-of-type(4) span { animation-delay: -1.9s; }
.route-track.return span { animation-delay: -3.8s; }

@keyframes bg-route-fly {
  0%, 12% { left: 0; opacity: 0; }
  20% { opacity: 1; }
  78% { opacity: 1; }
  88%, 100% { left: calc(100% - 1.2rem); opacity: 0; }
}

.opening-note { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 0.38fr 1fr; gap: clamp(2rem, 7vw, 7rem); max-width: 1000px; margin: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 7rem) auto 0; }
.opening-kicker { padding-top: 0.5rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--ink); color: var(--accent-deep); font: 500 0.68rem var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.09em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.opening-copy { margin: 0; font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: clamp(2rem, 4.2vw, 3.7rem); font-weight: 380; line-height: 1.06; letter-spacing: -0.04em; }

.bulgaria-journal { background: var(--paper); }
.journal-chapter { position: relative; padding: clamp(5rem, 10vw, 9rem) 0; overflow: clip; }
.chapter-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 120px minmax(0, 780px); gap: clamp(2rem, 6vw, 6rem); justify-content: center; }

.chapter-marker { position: sticky; top: 110px; align-self: start; text-align: right; }
.chapter-marker span { display: block; color: var(--accent); font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: 5rem; font-weight: 330; line-height: 0.82; letter-spacing: -0.08em; }
.chapter-marker p { margin-top: 0.85rem; color: var(--ink-soft); font: 500 0.62rem var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.08em; line-height: 1.7; text-transform: uppercase; }
.chapter-marker.light span { color: var(--gold); }
.chapter-marker.light p { color: rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.62); }

.chapter-copy.prose { width: auto; max-width: none; margin: 0; }
.chapter-copy .kicker { display: block; margin-bottom: 1rem; }
.chapter-copy h2 { margin: 0 0 2rem; font-size: clamp(3.3rem, 7vw, 6.4rem); font-weight: 390; letter-spacing: -0.06em; line-height: 0.92; }
.chapter-copy p { font-size: clamp(1.04rem, 1.8vw, 1.2rem); line-height: 1.82; }
.chapter-copy blockquote { margin: 3rem 0; padding: 1.3rem 0 1.3rem 2rem; border-left: 4px solid var(--accent); color: var(--ink); font-size: clamp(1.6rem, 3vw, 2.4rem); line-height: 1.25; }
.chapter-followup { margin-top: clamp(3.5rem, 7vw, 6rem); }

.story-photo { position: relative; margin: 0; transition: transform 0.45s ease, box-shadow 0.45s ease; }
.story-photo img { display: block; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; background: var(--paper-2); }
.story-photo figcaption { display: flex; gap: 0.55rem; margin-top: 0.75rem; color: var(--ink-soft); font: 450 0.64rem var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.045em; line-height: 1.5; text-transform: uppercase; }
.story-photo figcaption b { color: var(--accent-deep); }
.story-photo:hover { z-index: 4; transform: translateY(-7px) rotate(-0.4deg); }

.photo-layout { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.2fr 0.76fr 0.64fr; grid-template-rows: 460px 170px; gap: clamp(1rem, 2vw, 1.8rem); margin-top: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 7rem); }
.sofia-layout .wide { grid-row: 1 / 3; }
.sofia-layout .tall { grid-row: 1 / 3; }
.sofia-layout .portrait { grid-row: 1 / 3; padding-top: 70px; }
.sofia-layout .portrait img { height: calc(100% - 70px); }

.detail-reel { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.08fr 0.92fr 0.72fr; gap: clamp(1rem, 2vw, 2rem); margin-top: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 7rem); align-items: end; }
.detail-reel .story-photo:nth-child(1) img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; }
.detail-reel .story-photo:nth-child(2) { margin-bottom: 4rem; }
.detail-reel .story-photo:nth-child(2) img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 4.5; }
.detail-reel .story-photo:nth-child(3) img { aspect-ratio: 3 / 4.2; }

.chapter-rila {
  color: var(--cream-on-dark);
  background:
    radial-gradient(circle at 80% 10%, rgba(47, 129, 120, 0.32), transparent 38%),
    #0f2231;
}
.chapter-rila::before { content: ''; position: absolute; inset: 0; pointer-events: none; background: linear-gradient(rgba(255,255,255,0.025) 1px, transparent 1px); background-size: 100% 44px; }
.light-copy { color: var(--cream-on-dark); }
.light-copy .kicker { color: var(--gold); }
.light-copy p { color: rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.77); }

.rila-mosaic { position: relative; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.5fr 0.72fr 0.72fr; grid-template-rows: 340px 300px; gap: clamp(0.8rem, 1.8vw, 1.5rem); margin-top: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 7rem); }
.rila-mosaic .hero-frame { grid-row: 1 / 3; }
.rila-mosaic .story-photo:nth-child(2) { grid-column: 2 / 4; }
.rila-mosaic .story-photo:nth-child(3) { grid-column: 2; }
.rila-mosaic .story-photo:nth-child(4) { grid-column: 3; }
.rila-mosaic figcaption,
.mountain-reel figcaption { color: rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.65); }

.snow-panorama { position: relative; height: min(74vw, 760px); margin-top: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 7rem); overflow: hidden; }
.snow-panorama img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.snow-panorama::after { content: ''; position: absolute; inset: 0; background: linear-gradient(180deg, transparent 48%, rgba(8, 21, 32, 0.78)); }
.snow-panorama > div { position: absolute; left: max(5vw, calc((100vw - 1200px) / 2)); bottom: clamp(2rem, 6vw, 5rem); z-index: 2; max-width: 680px; }
.snow-panorama span { color: var(--gold); font: 500 0.7rem var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.12em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.snow-panorama p { max-width: 620px; margin: 0.7rem 0 0; color: var(--cream-on-dark); font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: clamp(2.5rem, 6vw, 5.5rem); line-height: 0.95; letter-spacing: -0.05em; }

.mountain-reel { grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); align-items: start; }
.mountain-reel .story-photo:nth-child(2) { margin: 4rem 0 0; }
.mountain-reel .story-photo:nth-child(3) { margin: 0; }
.mountain-reel .story-photo:nth-child(4) { margin-top: 5rem; }
.mountain-reel .story-photo img { aspect-ratio: 3 / 4.1; }

.chapter-plovdiv { background: #e9dfcc; }
.plovdiv-gallery { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 0.72fr 1.15fr 0.85fr; grid-template-rows: 330px 320px; gap: clamp(1rem, 2vw, 1.7rem); margin-top: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 7rem); }
.plovdiv-gallery .lane { grid-row: 1 / 3; }
.plovdiv-gallery .ruins { grid-column: 2; }
.plovdiv-gallery .rooftops { grid-column: 2 / 4; }
.plovdiv-gallery .tower { grid-column: 3; grid-row: 1; }
.plovdiv-details .story-photo:nth-child(1) { transform: rotate(-1.2deg); }
.plovdiv-details .story-photo:nth-child(2) { margin-bottom: 2rem; transform: rotate(1deg); }
.plovdiv-details .story-photo:nth-child(3) { transform: rotate(-0.6deg); }

.chapter-return { background: var(--paper); }
.return-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(300px, 0.8fr) minmax(0, 1fr); gap: clamp(3rem, 9vw, 9rem); align-items: center; max-width: 1080px; }
.return-portrait { position: relative; margin: 0; padding: 0.75rem 0.75rem 3.5rem; background: var(--cream-on-dark); box-shadow: var(--shadow-lg); transform: rotate(-3deg); }
.return-portrait::before { content: ''; position: absolute; top: -18px; left: 50%; width: 110px; height: 35px; background: rgba(239, 200, 95, 0.72); transform: translateX(-50%) rotate(2deg); }
.return-portrait img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; object-fit: cover; }
.return-portrait figcaption { position: absolute; right: 1rem; bottom: 0.85rem; left: 1rem; text-align: center; font-family: var(--font-hand); font-size: 1.2rem; }
.return-copy.prose { width: auto; margin: 0; }
.return-copy h2 { margin: 0.8rem 0 1.7rem; font-size: clamp(3.4rem, 7vw, 6rem); font-weight: 390; line-height: 0.94; letter-spacing: -0.055em; }
.return-copy .hand-note { margin-top: 2rem; color: var(--accent-deep); font-size: 1.25rem; }

.trip-ledger { padding: clamp(5rem, 9vw, 8rem) 0; color: var(--cream-on-dark); background: #0f1d2a; }
.trip-ledger .section-head h2 { color: var(--cream-on-dark); }
.trip-ledger .section-head .kicker { color: var(--gold); }
.ledger-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); margin-top: 3.5rem; border: 1px solid rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.22); }
.ledger-card { min-height: 280px; padding: clamp(1.4rem, 3vw, 2.3rem); border-right: 1px solid rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.22); transition: color 0.3s ease, background 0.3s ease; }
.ledger-card:last-child { border-right: 0; }
.ledger-card:hover { color: var(--ink); background: var(--gold); }
.ledger-card b { display: block; color: var(--accent); font: 500 0.72rem var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.08em; }
.ledger-card:hover b { color: var(--accent-deep); }
.ledger-card span { display: block; margin: 3.5rem 0 1rem; font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: 2rem; }
.ledger-card p { margin: 0; color: rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.65); font-size: 0.9rem; line-height: 1.7; }
.ledger-card:hover p { color: rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.78); }
.story-actions { display: flex; justify-content: center; gap: 1rem; margin-top: 3rem; }
.trip-ledger .btn-ghost { color: var(--cream-on-dark); border-color: rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.6); }

@media (max-width: 980px) {
  .route-card { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 1.2rem; }
  .route-track { display: none; }
  .route-stop { padding: 0.7rem; border: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .photo-layout { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; grid-template-rows: 440px 400px; }
  .sofia-layout .wide { grid-row: 1; grid-column: 1 / 3; }
  .sofia-layout .tall { grid-row: 2; }
  .sofia-layout .portrait { grid-row: 2; padding-top: 0; }
  .sofia-layout .portrait img { height: 100%; }
  .rila-mosaic { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; grid-template-rows: 500px 320px 320px; }
  .rila-mosaic .hero-frame { grid-column: 1 / 3; grid-row: 1; }
  .rila-mosaic .story-photo:nth-child(2) { grid-column: 1 / 3; grid-row: 2; }
  .rila-mosaic .story-photo:nth-child(3) { grid-column: 1; grid-row: 3; }
  .rila-mosaic .story-photo:nth-child(4) { grid-column: 2; grid-row: 3; }
  .mountain-reel { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .ledger-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .ledger-card:nth-child(2) { border-right: 0; }
  .ledger-card:nth-child(-n+2) { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.22); }
}

@media (max-width: 700px) {
  .bulgaria-story .place-hero { min-height: 78svh; padding-top: 110px; }
  .bulgaria-story .place-hero h1 { font-size: clamp(4.2rem, 22vw, 7rem); }
  .bulgaria-story .place-hero .flag-stamp { display: none; }
  .story-dateline { flex-wrap: wrap; row-gap: 0.6rem; }
  .route-card { grid-template-columns: 1fr; box-shadow: 5px 5px 0 var(--accent); }
  .opening-note { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1.5rem; }
  .chapter-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .chapter-marker { position: static; display: flex; align-items: end; gap: 1rem; text-align: left; }
  .chapter-marker span { font-size: 4.2rem; }
  .chapter-marker p { margin: 0; }
  .chapter-followup > div:first-child { display: none; }
  .photo-layout { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr; grid-template-rows: auto; }
  .sofia-layout .wide,
  .sofia-layout .tall,
  .sofia-layout .portrait { grid-column: auto; grid-row: auto; }
  .photo-layout .story-photo img { height: auto; aspect-ratio: 4 / 4.8; }
  .detail-reel { grid-template-columns: 1fr; align-items: start; }
  .detail-reel .story-photo:nth-child(n) { margin: 0; }
  .detail-reel .story-photo img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 4.7 !important; }
  .rila-mosaic { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr; grid-template-rows: repeat(4, 390px); }
  .rila-mosaic .story-photo:nth-child(n) { grid-column: 1; grid-row: auto; }
  .snow-panorama { height: 82svh; }
  .mountain-reel { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .mountain-reel .story-photo:nth-child(n) { margin: 0; }
  .plovdiv-gallery { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr; grid-template-rows: repeat(4, 380px); }
  .plovdiv-gallery .story-photo:nth-child(n) { grid-column: 1; grid-row: auto; }
  .return-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .return-portrait { width: min(86%, 430px); margin: 0 auto; }
  .ledger-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .ledger-card { min-height: 220px; border-right: 0; border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.22); }
  .ledger-card:nth-child(2) { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.22); }
  .ledger-card:last-child { border-bottom: 0; }
  .ledger-card span { margin-top: 2.2rem; }
  .story-actions { align-items: stretch; flex-direction: column; }
  .story-actions .btn { justify-content: center; }
}

@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  .bulgaria-story .place-hero .flag-stamp,
  .route-track span { animation: none !important; }
}

/* Bulgaria: the rooms, tables and nights between the landmarks */
.sofia-life {
  margin-top: clamp(6rem, 12vw, 11rem);
  padding: clamp(5rem, 9vw, 8rem) 0;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--ink);
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--ink);
  background: var(--cream-on-dark);
}

.life-heading { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 0.42fr 1fr; gap: clamp(2rem, 6vw, 6rem); align-items: end; }
.life-heading .kicker { align-self: start; }
.life-heading h3 { margin: 0; font-size: clamp(3rem, 7vw, 6.2rem); font-weight: 390; letter-spacing: -0.06em; line-height: 0.94; }
.life-heading > p { grid-column: 2; max-width: 740px; margin: 0; color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 1.1rem; }

.basecamp-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(260px, 0.72fr) 1.18fr 0.68fr;
  gap: clamp(1.2rem, 3vw, 2.7rem);
  margin-top: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 7rem);
  align-items: end;
}

.basecamp-copy { align-self: center; padding-right: clamp(0rem, 2vw, 2rem); }
.chapter-label { display: block; margin-bottom: 1rem; color: var(--accent-deep); font: 500 0.66rem var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.1em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.basecamp-copy h4 { margin-bottom: 1.3rem; font-size: clamp(2rem, 4vw, 3.3rem); font-weight: 420; letter-spacing: -0.04em; line-height: 1; }
.basecamp-copy p { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 0.98rem; }
.basecamp-copy .privacy-note { margin-top: 1.4rem; padding-left: 1rem; border-left: 2px solid var(--gold); font: 450 0.72rem/1.6 var(--font-mono); }
.basecamp-main img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; }
.basecamp-detail { margin-bottom: 4rem; }
.basecamp-detail img { aspect-ratio: 3 / 4.2; }

.night-notes { margin-top: clamp(6rem, 12vw, 11rem); }
.night-note {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 105px minmax(280px, 0.8fr) minmax(440px, 1.3fr);
  gap: clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 4rem);
  padding: clamp(3rem, 6vw, 5rem) 0;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
  align-items: center;
}

.night-note:last-child { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.night-time { align-self: start; color: var(--accent-deep); font: 500 0.62rem var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.08em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.night-copy h4 { margin-bottom: 1rem; font-size: clamp(2rem, 4vw, 3.4rem); font-weight: 420; letter-spacing: -0.04em; line-height: 1; }
.night-copy p { color: var(--ink-soft); }
.night-copy address,
.after-rila-grid address,
.rahat-copy address { margin-top: 1.3rem; color: var(--accent-deep); font: normal 500 0.68rem/1.6 var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.04em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.night-photos { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 0.78fr; gap: 1rem; align-items: end; }
.night-photos img { width: 100%; height: 440px; object-fit: cover; }
.night-photos img:last-child { height: 360px; }
.night-note.reverse .night-time { grid-column: 1; }
.night-note.reverse .night-copy { grid-column: 3; grid-row: 1; }
.night-note.reverse .night-photos,
.night-note.reverse .night-single { grid-column: 2; grid-row: 1; }
.night-single { margin: 0; }
.night-single img { width: 100%; height: 480px; object-fit: cover; }
.tasting-note .night-photos img:first-child { height: 350px; }
.tasting-note .night-photos img:last-child { height: 480px; }

.mountain-table {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 1.15fr repeat(3, 0.75fr);
  gap: clamp(1rem, 2.4vw, 2.2rem);
  margin-top: clamp(6rem, 11vw, 10rem);
  align-items: end;
}

.mountain-table-copy { align-self: center; padding-right: clamp(1rem, 4vw, 4rem); }
.mountain-table-copy .kicker { color: var(--gold); }
.mountain-table-copy h3 { margin-bottom: 1.3rem; color: var(--cream-on-dark); font-size: clamp(2.4rem, 5vw, 4.2rem); font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: -0.05em; line-height: 0.95; }
.mountain-table-copy p { color: rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.7); }
.mountain-table figure { margin: 0; }
.mountain-table figure:nth-child(3) { margin-bottom: 3.5rem; }
.mountain-table figure img { width: 100%; height: 390px; object-fit: cover; }
.mountain-table figure:nth-child(3) img { height: 310px; }
.mountain-table figcaption { margin-top: 0.7rem; color: rgba(255, 248, 235, 0.58); font: 450 0.6rem var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.04em; text-transform: uppercase; }

.after-rila-band { margin-top: clamp(6rem, 11vw, 10rem); padding: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 7rem) 0; color: var(--ink); background: var(--gold); }
.after-rila-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 0.8fr 0.55fr; gap: clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 4rem); align-items: center; }
.after-rila-grid h3 { margin-bottom: 1.3rem; font-size: clamp(2.8rem, 6vw, 5.5rem); font-weight: 390; letter-spacing: -0.06em; line-height: 0.93; }
.after-rila-grid p { max-width: 620px; }
.after-rila-grid figure { margin: 0; }
.after-rila-grid figure img { width: 100%; height: 520px; object-fit: cover; }
.after-rila-grid figure:last-child { transform: translateY(3rem) rotate(2deg); }
.after-rila-grid figure:last-child img { height: 390px; }

.rahat-story {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 0.9fr 0.7fr 1.05fr;
  grid-template-rows: auto 280px;
  gap: clamp(1rem, 2.4vw, 2.2rem);
  margin-top: clamp(7rem, 12vw, 11rem);
  padding-top: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 7rem);
  border-top: 1px solid var(--ink);
}
.rahat-copy { grid-row: 1 / 3; align-self: center; padding-right: clamp(1rem, 4vw, 4rem); }
.rahat-copy h3 { margin-bottom: 1.3rem; font-size: clamp(2.8rem, 5.6vw, 5rem); font-weight: 390; letter-spacing: -0.055em; line-height: 0.95; }
.rahat-copy p { color: var(--ink-soft); }
.rahat-story figure { margin: 0; }
.rahat-story figure img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.rahat-story figcaption { margin-top: 0.65rem; color: var(--ink-soft); font: 450 0.6rem var(--font-mono); text-transform: uppercase; }
.rahat-beer { height: 430px; }
.rahat-food { height: 430px; }
.rahat-dessert { grid-column: 2 / 4; height: 280px; margin-right: 20% !important; }

.last-hours {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 1.2fr repeat(3, 0.72fr);
  gap: clamp(1rem, 2.2vw, 2rem);
  margin-top: clamp(7rem, 12vw, 10rem);
  padding-top: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 7rem);
  border-top: 1px solid var(--ink);
  align-items: end;
}
.last-hours-copy { align-self: center; padding-right: 2rem; }
.last-hours-copy h3 { margin-bottom: 1.2rem; font-size: clamp(2.6rem, 5vw, 4.3rem); font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: -0.05em; line-height: 0.95; }
.last-hours-copy p { color: var(--ink-soft); }
.last-hours figure { margin: 0; }
.last-hours figure:nth-child(3) { margin-bottom: 3rem; }
.last-hours figure img { width: 100%; height: 360px; object-fit: cover; }
.last-hours figure:nth-child(3) img { height: 300px; }
.last-hours figcaption { margin-top: 0.65rem; color: var(--ink-soft); font: 450 0.58rem var(--font-mono); text-transform: uppercase; }

.address-book {
  padding: clamp(5rem, 10vw, 9rem) 0;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--ink);
  background:
    linear-gradient(rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.045) 1px, transparent 1px),
    linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(23, 37, 55, 0.045) 1px, transparent 1px),
    var(--paper);
  background-size: 34px 34px;
}
.address-book .section-head { max-width: 800px; }
.address-book .section-head h2 { font-size: clamp(3rem, 6vw, 5.5rem); font-weight: 390; letter-spacing: -0.055em; }
.address-book .section-head p { max-width: 660px; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.address-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); margin-top: 3.5rem; border: 1px solid var(--ink); background: var(--cream-on-dark); box-shadow: 8px 8px 0 var(--accent); }
.address-grid article { min-height: 260px; padding: clamp(1.5rem, 3vw, 2.5rem); border-right: 1px solid var(--line); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); transition: background 0.3s ease, transform 0.3s ease; }
.address-grid article:nth-child(3n) { border-right: 0; }
.address-grid article:nth-child(n+4) { border-bottom: 0; }
.address-grid article:hover { z-index: 2; background: var(--gold); transform: translate(-4px, -4px); }
.address-grid b { color: var(--accent-deep); font: 500 0.62rem var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.09em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.address-grid h3 { margin: 2.8rem 0 0.7rem; font-size: 1.8rem; font-weight: 470; }
.address-grid p { margin: 0; color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 0.9rem; }
.address-grid span { display: block; margin-top: 1.2rem; color: var(--ink-soft); font: 450 0.58rem var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.06em; text-transform: uppercase; }

@media (max-width: 1000px) {
  .life-heading { grid-template-columns: 0.3fr 1fr; }
  .basecamp-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .basecamp-copy { grid-column: 1 / 3; max-width: 750px; }
  .basecamp-detail { margin-bottom: 0; }
  .night-note { grid-template-columns: 80px 0.75fr 1fr; }
  .night-photos img { height: 360px; }
  .night-photos img:last-child { height: 300px; }
  .mountain-table { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr; }
  .mountain-table-copy { grid-column: 1 / 4; max-width: 720px; }
  .after-rila-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 0.8fr; }
  .after-rila-grid > div { grid-column: 1 / 3; }
  .after-rila-grid figure:last-child { transform: none; }
  .rahat-story { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; grid-template-rows: auto 400px 260px; }
  .rahat-copy { grid-column: 1 / 3; grid-row: 1; max-width: 760px; }
  .rahat-beer, .rahat-food { height: 400px; }
  .rahat-dessert { grid-column: 1 / 3; height: 260px; margin-right: 15% !important; }
  .last-hours { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); }
  .last-hours-copy { grid-column: 1 / 4; max-width: 720px; }
  .address-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .address-grid article:nth-child(3n) { border-right: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .address-grid article:nth-child(2n) { border-right: 0; }
  .address-grid article:nth-child(n+4) { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .address-grid article:nth-child(n+5) { border-bottom: 0; }
}

@media (max-width: 700px) {
  .life-heading { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .life-heading > p { grid-column: 1; }
  .basecamp-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .basecamp-copy { grid-column: 1; }
  .basecamp-main img,
  .basecamp-detail img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 4.7; }
  .night-note,
  .night-note.reverse { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1.4rem; }
  .night-note .night-time,
  .night-note .night-copy,
  .night-note .night-photos,
  .night-note .night-single,
  .night-note.reverse .night-time,
  .night-note.reverse .night-copy,
  .night-note.reverse .night-photos,
  .night-note.reverse .night-single { grid-column: 1; grid-row: auto; }
  .night-photos { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .night-photos img,
  .night-photos img:last-child,
  .tasting-note .night-photos img:first-child,
  .tasting-note .night-photos img:last-child { height: 280px; }
  .night-single img { height: 430px; }
  .mountain-table { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .mountain-table-copy { grid-column: 1; }
  .mountain-table figure:nth-child(3) { margin-bottom: 0; }
  .mountain-table figure img,
  .mountain-table figure:nth-child(3) img { height: 380px; }
  .after-rila-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .after-rila-grid > div { grid-column: 1; }
  .after-rila-grid figure img,
  .after-rila-grid figure:last-child img { height: 410px; }
  .rahat-story { grid-template-columns: 1fr; grid-template-rows: auto; }
  .rahat-copy,
  .rahat-dessert { grid-column: 1; grid-row: auto; }
  .rahat-beer,
  .rahat-food,
  .rahat-dessert { height: 380px; margin-right: 0 !important; }
  .last-hours { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .last-hours-copy { grid-column: 1; }
  .last-hours figure:nth-child(3) { margin-bottom: 0; }
  .last-hours figure img,
  .last-hours figure:nth-child(3) img { height: 380px; }
  .address-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; box-shadow: 5px 5px 0 var(--accent); }
  .address-grid article:nth-child(n) { min-height: 220px; border-right: 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .address-grid article:last-child { border-bottom: 0; }
}